ASCENT OF TIRICHI MIR

by Kyoto Branch of JAC


by SUDO Tateshi


On lst of July 1991, Saito, Suddo, Horie, Funao, Oda, and Yamaguchi visited Adventure Training Centre, Which is situated at the resort city of Abbottabad. The both sides of Japan-Pakistan Joint Tirich Mir expedition met each other for first time. Six Pakistani climbers participated in the expedition. Sajjad Shah is deputy leader. Ata-UI-Haq, one of the few experienced Pakistani climbers, stood on the summits of Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum II, and Sia Kangri, joined this time as liaison officer.
After four days caravan journey, on 12th of July the main body of the party reached bend of the Upper Tirich glacier (4,800m), and built Base Camp. Climbing Tirich Mir was commenced on the following day.

Camp 1 and Advance Base Camp were pitched respectively at 5,8OOm and 6,400m.
Luggages of higher camps were carried up by 24th, and members descended to Base
Camp to take five days'rest. Miyagawa, Matsuda and Dokai of the rear group arrived at Base Camp to join the main body.
On 30th Sudo, Horie, Funao, Oda, Atta, Tayyab and Nadeem left Base Camp.
They built Camp 3 at 6,800m on the crevasse-ridden upper end of the glacier, and spent two days to cut open fifteen pitches of way on the ice couloir culminating in the col between the summit and West Peak. Camp 4 was built on the col.
Seven climbers started on 5th to assault on the summit. But Tayyab slipped at 7400m and fell to the Lower Tirich glacier. Fortunately he was found lain in a crevasse doom lower down. He was hardly hurt and able to be carried down to Camp 3. Remaining three climbers ascended to Camp 3 to meet others. Tayyah was safely rescued down to Base Camp c-n 6th. On 9th Horie, Funao and Atta ascended to Camp 4 and went on the second summit assault on loth. The heavy wind broke tent poled at Camp 4, and they could not cut the way up and were compelled to return at 7,450m and arrived at Camp 4. Atta got frostbitten on both feet and he returned to Base Camp on the following day.
On 10th, Sudo, Miyagawa, Matsuda, Oda and Dokai left Base Camp and climbed to camp 4 on 13th.
On 14th Sudo, Miyagawa and Matsuda started on the third assault, but it took too much time to find out the way on the rocky arete leading to the summit.
After climbing 4 pitches it became too late, and they were forced to return.
On 15th, Sudo and Miyagawa managed to climb the rest of 4 pitches on the arete, and finally reached the sumit (7,708m) at 2 pm.
In the morning of 16th Dokai at Camp 4 was seriously affected with cerebral edema and he could not walk by himself. Rescue operation was begun without delay. Dokai was carried down to Camp 3, where 11orie and Nadeem joined the group. At Advance Base Camp, Sajjad joined. Camp 3 and Advance Base Camp were removed and they bivouaced at 6,100m. Dokai was carried down to a place some 1,200m lower down, and he considerably recovered by the follwing morning. The party could carry safely him back to Base Camp. As a member of the rear group Miyagawa came to the mountain rather late. He could tread on the summit 19 days after he reached Base Camp.

The second object of our expedition was to minimize the volume of rubbish and to carry out the luggage as much as possible. Because of unanticipated happenings of incidents at higher camps, we were unable to attain completely the object. We were compelled to leave some of equipments and foods on the mountain. One tent of Camp 4 and provisions at Camp 3 and Camp 1 were thrown into crevasse of the glacier nearby, and rations at Advance Base Camp were left on snow since we could not find out crevasse in the neighbourhood. Climbing rope fixed at 23 pitches on the steep slope was left.
While we were climbing, all garbages were carried down to Base Camp and burned there. Emptied tins and garbage found on camp sites of previous expeditions werecleaned up. Emptied tins were pressed compactly, and together with inflammble wastes, those were transported back to Abbottabad by three special porters.
On 26th August all of us were invited to the reception party given by the President. I handed over the piece of stone to the Presindent which 1 picked up at the summit of Tirich Mir, and reported him the results of expedition. Japanese members left Pakistan on 31th of August.